返回列表 发帖

扑克 一个关于partypoker的老外的经验

一个关于partypoker的老外的经验



Party Poker



"CRACKED"

         " Party Poker Cracked"



This is what you have been waiting for so let's get right to it. This is not

some 400-page book that will bore you. It is designed to be brief, effective,

and to be easily mastered.



Please note the Poker Chart, as you should refer to it often while reading

this. I personally have it taped to the wall next to my computer for easy

reference when I gamble online.



When I go to the casino and play limit Texas Holdem I usually win 4 out of

5 times. I play tight and aggressive. When I first started playing online I

couldn't believe how diverse the players were. I was winning 1 out of 5

sessions online. What a joke I thought. I know I am good but why am I

losing so much?



Due to privacy, I will not tell anyone how much money I made on

Party Poker.com last year but I can tell you that my play money

account is over 60 million dollars (note the screen shot)!

This book will help you win consistently when gambling online, playing NO

LIMIT poker. Can I guarantee that? Absolutely not. I can't control your

sessions, but after applying the principles in this book you should be much

better off and find your way to huge success.



Let's get one thing straight. PartyPoker.com and Empirepoker.com are

virtually the same thing. When I refer to PARP I am referring to both

websites as they have identical algorithms.



Let's address each subject one at a time:



Please refer to the chart as you read.

Texas Hold'em Poker Category Card Chart



1       AA   KK   QQ   JJ   A,Ks



2       TT   A,Qs A,Js   K,Qs A,K



3       9,9   A,10s K,Js   Q,Js   J,10s A,Q

4       8,8   K,Ts Q,Ts J,9s     T,9s   9,8s   A,J   K,Q



5       7,7   A,9s   A,xs   Q,9s   T,8s   9,7s   8,7s   7,6s   6,5s



5       K,J   Q,J   J,T



6       6,6   5,5   K,9s   J,8s   8,6s   7,5s   5,4s



6       A,T   K,T   Q,T



7       4,4   3,3   2,2   K,xs   Q,8s   T,7s   6,4s   5,3s   4,3s

7       J,9   T,9



8       J,7s   9,6s   8,5s   7,4s   4,2s   3,2s



8       A,9   K,9   Q,9   J,8   10,8   8,7   7,6   6,5   5,4



S= Suited X=Any Card

For this entire book we are going to assume that you're playing real money

$25 buy in no limit hold'em with 8-10 players at the table.

Big blind .50 cents Small Blind .25 cents.

These are the parameters I only recommend playing by the way until you

master the "online" game.







In real life I get so excited when I get a Category one hand! In PARP, I

cringe when I get a category one hand except for J,J or A,Ks.



Why is that you might ask?



AA KK QQ.



Whenever you get one of those 3 hands, two other players will indefinitely

have a pocket pair as well a large percentage of the time. And you'll know

by the way unless you are first to act because the betting will start getting

really big pre-flop. This scenario happens very often. I would say that 40%

of the time that 1 of the 2 smaller pocket pairs will flop a set (Three of a

kind.)



This means your AA KK or QQ are liabilities in PARP. Don't get me wrong

I win with these "great" starting hands but it's only about 20% of the time.



Knowing this I will not call a raise, or place a bet more than $5 preflop with

AA, KK, or QQ!!!!! If I bet $2 and it goes to $10 I am usually going to lay

that hand down (fold). I almost always check these hands. After the flop, if I

don't get a set I usually fold if there is a bet over $1.



I used to raise, call, reraise, check-raise, you name it with these hands only

to be sickened at the outcome in PARP.





Here is why this happens in PARP. You will come to a table and after

playing for awhile with correct strategy you will usually win 3-4 hands and

your money will be doubled-tripled on average. (You started with a $25 buy

in meaning you have $50-$75 at the table.)

Once this happens, (Because of party poker's fairness policy), the website

will literally COME AFTER YOU. You will start getting 3,4, or 5 Pocket

pairs within just 10 hands. (Statistically impossible.) (This is just one of

many things the website will throw at you.)



Your temptation and possibly greed will be so overwhelming you will be

tempted to "go all in" with your pocket Aces, Kings, etc. Watch out because

you will see the worst bad beats in history. Here is one example of a bad

beat that happens all the time.



EX: You flop AA and bet $5 you get raised to $25 by some other player.

It's obvious he has a Pocket pair as well. Probably kings or queens.

The flop comes and there are no face cards. If he has any money left he bets

$10 and you call. 4th Street comes and you notice there are 3 spades on the

board. You have A diamonds and A clubs. You don't know this but your

opponent has Q hearts and Q SPADES. 5th st produces a 10 of spades and

you lose to a flush with your opponent having the Q of spades.



This has happened to me countless times and it will make your stomach turn.

You may work your ass off for an hour and a half and be up $80 in profit to

have it all go away with one hand that you statistically were supposed to

win.



Solution: Don't call AA KK OR QQ with more than a $5 preflop bet. If you

don't flop the set and the bets are getting big RUN RUN RUN and FOLD!



(This is provided that you are winning money on PARP. If you are down

money or just getting started these hands on the flip side produce amazing

wins. Once your winning consistently though, these hands will come back to

haunt you.)

JJ



Pocket Jacks seem to win about half the time in real life and half the time in

PARP. One actual congruence. Amazing. I won't call pocket jacks for more

than $4 preflop. If I bet $2 and it gets raised to $10, I am probably going to

lay down(fold) the hand unless I haven't won a hand that I have bet on in

what seems like ages.



If you don't flop the set RUN.





10,10 9,9 8,8 7,7 6,6



The best hands in PP. These hands pay off the best. There are pitfalls.

I usually slow play or limp in with these hands but make sure the bet is close

or up to $3 per player before the flop. I flop set after set with these hands,

and they are the absolute hardest for your opponents to read!



Be careful and this is the reason for the slow play. But remember, you have

to get something in the pot pre-flop for any hand to pay off.



Legend: s-spades h-hearts c-clubs d-diamonds





Example:



You have pocket 6's pre flop and there is $12 in the pot. 3 others players are

in with you. The flop comes 7s 6h Qs. This is a hand you probably will lose

in PARP. Here's why. Either someone has a set of 7's, or someone is on a

flush draw that will probably hit. If you can get away with 4th st for under

$2, go for it. If a spade hits on 4th st be careful.

We will touch on bluffing and maniacs later in this book, but in my

experience it's better to play tight and fold unless you have a great read on

your opponent and it's obvious he doesn't have a flush and was never on a

flush draw.



5,5 4,4 3,3 2,2



These are also great hands because they are almost impossible to read. When

you flop a set with these hands nobody can put you on them especially if you

slow play the flop. I will call up to $3 but usually $2 on hands like these.



Here is one great thing to know about PARP and pocket pairs. If you flop a

set and there are 3 different suits for the 3 flopped cards and there is only 1

Connected string i.e. (4,5 6,7 8,9 J,Q etc. different suited of course) you are

going to win the hand over 90%of the time. You could go all in but you

might scare everyone away, so use tact. You definitely need to bet strong say

$4-$7 to scare off the players with 2 suited cards in their hands.



The ACE



I believe that any ACE, x (x- any card) in PARP is worth a $1 call preflop.

I believe that any ACE, s (s-suited card) in PARP is worth up to a $3 call in

preflop.



Playing hands like these will never be worth a big pot or raise by another

player unless you flop 2 pair, or 4 of the same suit or a straight draw

(straight draw with an ace is always inside so be ready to run if the betting

gets big)







When you flop 4 of the same suit you have roughly a 1 in 3 chance of

making your flush. It is practically worth chasing (semi-bluffing) that hand

all the time. Do your best to keep the betting moderate until the flush hits. If

the betting is reasonable I will usually stick a hand like that out to see if it

hits providing there are at least 2 other players and the betting is reasonable.

Another congruence of Real life poker and PARP is that you should never

chase a hand unless you are getting good pot odds and you only need one

card to hit and there are a lot of ways it can hit.

If your chasing a 7 and you have 2 of them it is NEVER worth chasing

unless the table is checking or betting only 50 cents per card.



NEVER CHASE unless its free or very cheap.



If your opponent doesn't punish you for chasing by betting several dollars or

more, then take advantage of it. (providing you only need one card, not two)



If you need 2 cards to make a straight or 2 cards to make a flush after

the flop RUN RUN RUN and fold unless it is being checked to you!!!!!!!!





Suited connectors 10,J 8,9 7,6 etc



Suited connectors rock and are by far the most fun hands to play in PARP

because they can hit in so many ways. Besides flopping sets these are the

second most profitable hands in PARP. I will call up to $4 with these hands

pre-flop with suited connectors 8,9 or higher. I will call up to $2 in PARP

for suited connectors 7,8 or lower. I.e. 4h, 5h.



It's either hit or miss. And you'll know. There are only three ways to hit

after the flop. You either end up with an open-end straight draw, a 4 card

flush draw, or two pair. (naturally you could flop a set, a full house, a

straight, a flush, and bigger hands but we'll touch on those flops later.)



If you have 8s,9s and the flop is 10s, Jd, you are looking pretty good.



To sum it up, it's quite simple if you need one card to make the str8 or one

card to make the flush it's usually worth the ride.



Here are some examples where it's not worth the ride in PARP as these

come up all the time.



Example:



You have 9h,10h and the flop is 7s, 8s, Ad. Be very careful because flushes

come out of nowhere in these type of scenarios. What will most likely

happen is that someone has just flopped a pair of ACES, and they will start

building the pot. Your straight draw is happy to call and so is the flush draw.

(if someone has one) If you have been winning a lot you can expect PARP

to throw a js or 6s on 4th or 5th street. You make your straight and some pud

makes his flush. If the betting is reasonable stay in, but if it gets high get

ready to run. You'll most likely be beat.





Never chase an inside straight draw unless it's so cheap (checked to you or

.50 cents) that it's worthwhile and there is no flush draw out there as well.

Example (6, 8, 9, 10) you need a 7 to hit Good luck be cause it rarely ever

happens.



The Small Big Blind:



I will CALL category 5-8 on the big blind and small blind providing I can do

it for a dollar or less.



By the way a few hands that never seem to hit in PARP are K,J Q,T



A few hands that hit a lot are 3,4 4,7 and 3,5. I will call up to $1 on these

hands all day long pre-flop. I would never go over $1 though. I play unsound

hands like these 1 out of 30 hands,(unless I am in cycle) ((more on that

later)) and these are the three hands I have chosen for those purposes. It

helps prevent me from looking like I play too tight to the other players.

When these hands win it is so fun to watch the uproar of people saying " I

cant' believe you played a hand like that"

"LMAO" I write back to them.









Bluffing: Bluffing is a great tool in no limit hold'em but should be used

with absolute discretion. There are so many call stations in PARP that it can

be hard to bluff.(more so in no limit,) You can't physically read body

language in PARP since your playing on the computer but I can tell you a

few things. When someone pauses for 5-15 seconds in PARP and then does

a huge raise or they go all in, or match your remaining chips via raise, they

are 95% of the time NOT BLUFFING.

When I sense a player is bluffing a lot (usually easy to pick up in PARP

because it is very rare to see someone win more than 3 out of 7 hands in a

cycle, I will just wait until I have the nuts or an incredibly good hand, and I

will pause for less than 3 seconds and then check. When they try to run me

over with a big bet I smile to myself and raise or just call. After they fold

with my raise or try to rersaise me I just laugh and take all of their money.

They then disappear off the table.



I don't personally bluff in PARP but maybe one out of 20 hands I actually

play. It just creates bad habits.



Action: "You have to give action to get action"



I am not sure who said that, but it's very true. It's called no limit hold'em for

a reason. If you get a table that is betting 50 cents here and there, and there is

a lot of checking, then that's your dream table. That is what you are looking

for by the way on PARP. Those people don't belong on a no limit table.

They belong on a .50/$1 table. It is your job and your responsibility to break

the entire table. Here is how you do it.





You should have enough card theory by now ADJUSTED FOR PARP,

So let's get to the meat of how to make the big money.



When you find a table like that, and there are many of them out there...

(I just look for the table that has at least 8 players and the smallest pot

average ((which is listed under table categories by the way.))



What you do is wait for one of your good starting hands like a medium sized

pocket pair or a nice suited connector like 10,J or even an A,xsuited hand.

Then you bet $2. Most of the table will fold. Doesn't matter what happens

win or lose. Get your next good hand and bet $2 before the flop again.

Doesn't matter what happens. After about 4 or 5 hands that you bet on,

which may be 20-30 actual deals (hopefully less) the table will start to get

acclimated to YOUR style.



Before you got there everyone was calling a $.50 big blind hoping to catch a

great flop and then betting $1or $2 after the flop and then like 7 out of 8

players would fold. Loose passive is what it's called; the opposite of a

winner on a NO LIMIT HOLDEM TABLE even in PARP.

After you start betting your $2-$3 (only on good hands of course) the players

who were calling every $.50 bet will start to get bored and impatient because

before you got there, they were calling every blind.



They will step it up a notch with you, but they are still playing the same

crappy hands they were playing before but now with a $2 bet and a sense of

having pot commitment.



What will happen then is you have to be patient for a really good flop and

you just keep betting incrementally higher. Say $3 after the flop $4 4th st

and $5 or more $5th st. I always like to mix it up so there's no one right way.

I might just do $3 $3 $3 flop, 4th , river etc., or $2 $5 $4 etc. with a potential

all in on the nuts.



People will start to fear you, they will start to get pissed at you and leave,

only to be replaced by yet another person who shouldn't be playing no limit

hold'em. This strategy works so well that I can usually turn $100 into $400

within just a few hours. Just remember, even though you bet $2-$3 before

the flop that if you don't like the flop get out of the hand.







Bankroll:



Let's talk about bankroll. To play tight aggressive no limit poker, you need

at least a $200 bankroll. I will often drop $50-$75 in the first hour or so that

I play priming up the table. Then people get excited and start betting more

and more. This is where you take advantage. Now instead of someone

calling only a $1 raise they will be likely inclined to call $6 or $7 bets, and

even all ins. Keep in mind only consider going all in when you have the nuts

or d#amn close to it.



This type of "conditioning" I like to call it will start to win you pots in

excess of over $60 each. You are only looking to win 5-7 big pots in your

4-hour session. You can expect to lose 2-3 pots that you play all the way as

well. That's why it is better to lose early as you are acclimating the table as

the pots will be smaller.

By the way your 4-hour session should be played on at least 2 tables (not at

the same time). Figure once your money on the table reaches around $200

it's time to leave. The reason is because after you reach around $200 most of

the weak players will be long gone and you can expect PARP to throw you

second best losing hands at you for up to an hour or so. You can't quit for

an hour and come back, you must get through the crap PARP will

throw at you.



My best session was turning $25 into over $1,200 in less than 2 hours on a

no limit $100 table. The only reason that happened though is because only

one player left why the others all stayed trying to win their money back. (A

lot of luck that day.)



Remember once you win 3-5 hands you can expect up to an hour of getting

second best hands while PARP works on evenly distributing your money

"fairly" back to the players. After playing for a long time you will begin to

recognize the patterns of PARP.



I think of it like a slot machine. It has payouts and pay ins. PARP is so

blatant about it that you will hit 4 of a kind say 4 10's on 4th st only to lose to

a straight or royal flush. Happens all the time!!!









More bad beats to watch out for:



4 of a kinds are so common on PARP it is sickening. I know these types of

bad beats happen in real life, don't get me wrong. I have played thousands of

hours in casinos all over the world and have seen many incredible bad beats.

BUT I HAVE NEVER SEEN AS MANY BAD BEATS WITH THE

FREQUENCY AS I HAVE ON PARP!!!!!!!!!!!



I play a lot of $100 no limit on PARP and the players are of a different

caliber. Regardless, one night I dropped $600 in 30 minutes. Here's what

happened. In 10 consecutive hands I had AA 4 times KK 2 times QQ 1 time

and JJ one time, A,Ks and A,K. Every hand lost and 6 of those times it was

to a lower pocket pair that flopped a set or caught a flush meaning 4 suited

cards on the 5 card layout!

Talk about sickening. I was up $500 from a different table that took hours of

work, and I lost it all in a twinkling of the eye with some of the best possible

starting hands!!!!!!



The solution, which I finally found, was to only bet big when I had the nuts

in PARP. And to mostly check category1 hands in PARP. I also do a lot of

trapping. When I start out with the nuts I usually slow play to see where the

table is going.





I want you to know that with these strategies you can win several hundred

dollars playing $25 no limit hold'em in PARP in just a 4-hour session. Some

days you can easily drop a $100 or so. But if you apply the principles and

take heed to the pitfalls of PARP, you can be up consistently every single

week while playing online.



Here's my advice; start with play money. Go into a $25 no limit play money

table. The blinds are smaller in play money by the way. (.10 and .25)

Find a weak passive table. Check the pot averages to find it. Play

aggressive. If you play categories 1-5 plus all pocket pairs, bet no less than

$2 if you decide to bet on a hand. (check category 1 hands except J,J and

A,Ks) If the flop sucks run, but occasionally call a .50 bet to throw people

off your tracks. When you hit a good flop incrementally raise the stakes (a

blessing of no limit). I would say that after you turn $100 into $500 on a

single table (play money) at least 20 times!!! you are ready for the real thing.

I would recommend getting your play money account up to at least $10,000

strictly from $25 play money buy-ins on No Limit Hold'em. That means you

buy in for $25 play money and maybe you lose it. Buy in for $25 more, and

maybe you lose that. You'll know you have PARP figured out well when

you lose no more than $100 ($25 at a time) and have your table money built

up to $500 consistently.



I did a test the other day and it took less than 45 minutes per table. I started

with $25 play money, and I was able to get up to $700 on the first table.

$489 on the second table. (Everyone left one by one, it was funny.) and over

$1,000 on the third table.



It's not quite that easy in real money because the weak players will usually

leave sooner. That's why a good real money goal is to get up to $190 with a

$100 budget per table. ($90 net profit per table) I say $190 because it usually

takes me twice as much time to get from $25 to $200 as it does to get to

$190 don't ask me why! (Another PARP pitfall?)





Conclusion: Specific betting theory:



First of all the most common winning hand in PARP is a flush. It is

disgusting, so take advantage of it.



It is very important to mix up your bets. So when I give you a hand with

a max call amount pre flop, you should check, bet, or raise to get as

close to the max call amount with different increments as you can. That

way the other players will have a very tough time getting a good read on

your play style.









RECAP:







AA KK QQ- Max pre-flop amount is $5. If you don't flop the set highly

     consider running.



JJ-     Max pre-flop amount is $4. Again, toss up your play with

     these starting hands so people can't get a read on you.

Aks or AK- Max pre-flop amount is $3-$4. If you don't flop a pair a

     straight draw or a flush draw with the suited version get

       ready to run.

TT 99 88 77

66-         Max pre-flop amount is $3. If you miss the set get ready

         To run unless the betting remains small. If you do flop a set

         and you see 2 suited cards on the flop, proceed with great

         caution.



55 44 33 22-   Max pre-flop amount is $2-$3. You really need to flop a

         set to make these hands killers. Same principles apply

         with the bigger pairs above.



A,xs-       Max pre-flop amount if $3 preferably LESS. Flop 2 more

         Of the Same suit and you are in nut draw heaven.



A2 A3 A4 A5

A10 AJ AQ-     Max pre-flop amount is $2. If you don't flop two pair

           With the 2,3,4,or 5 or a straight draw, get ready to run if

           the betting starts to get big.



A6 A7 A8 A9-     Not a very worthwhile hand, however I will call these

           hands up to $1 when I am in the big or small blind in

           PARP. They rarely hit but, when they do, they are huge.





Category 2-5-   Max pre-flop amount is $3. If the hand hits you know

           What to do.



Category 6-8-   Max pre-flop is $2. Besides the pocket pairs, I only play

         These hands with discretion. I always check these hands

         and if a bet happens early in the position or I am early in

         position (pre-flop) I will usually lay the hand down.

         I almost always play these hands when I am in the big or

         Small blind.

What is a HIT?





           Leave luck to the other players. Luck is a good part of

No Limit Hold'em, but rely on it as little as possible. Leave luck for the

weak players. Whether you want to play for fun or to make money, or

both, do yourself a favor and be a strong player. That means folding

hands a lot if they don't hit well. Here are the only types of hands you

should consider playing out after the flop.



Largest Pair on board with a HIGH kicker.

Two Pair.

4 card straight draw.

4 card flush draw.

Small pair but with a flush or straight draw as well.

Straight

Flush

Full House

4 of a kind

Straight Flush or Royal Flush

(OTHER HANDS APPLY BUT ONLY IF YOUR ON A CYCLE)

(discussed later)



Flopping the straight:



Flop a straight and you only have a 50% chance of winning in PARP.

If there are 3 different suits on the flop then bet strong. You will win

80% of the time.



Flopping the Flush:



Flop a flush in PARP, and you will win 60% of the time. (90% if you

have the ACE) If the board pairs you are probably going to lose to a full

house in PARP 50% of the time.

Flopping the boat:



Flop a boat in PARP and you will win 90% of the time.

These hands are easy to win money if you follow this strategy.

If there was betting action before the flop, then you have pot

commitment, and you can bet moderate bets all the way to the end.

Say, $2 after flop $4 on 4th st , and if some sucker is still in go all in at

the end if you still have the nuts.



If you don't build pots ( you need too, to be successful in no limit

hold'em), everyone will FOLD when you flop a full boat 90% of the

time. Remember, "you have to give action to get action."



Flopping a set that turns into 4 of a kind:



When you get 4 of a kind (providing there is no straight or royal flush

draw), this is PARP's way of saying we've decided to screw your

opponent. 90% of the time if the 4 of a kind comes out right, you will be

able to get an all in bet called to pay you off. Usually, I would say 75%

of the time the other players will be raising you. Although 4 of a kind is

rare, they come up a lot on PARP.





THE MOST IMPORTANT PART OF THIS BOOK:



Party Poker's Algorithm



As you win more and more hands in PARP. (real money or

play money) a shifting occurs.



Category hands 1-5 in that order become devalued!

Category hands 6-8 and WORSE become more valuable!

This shifting happens for several hours at a time and you have

to become aware of what is going on!

Example:



Let's say you were able to play out the cards with (5 players or

more) until the end every time. You would know ultimately

who would win every time. Out of 20 times that you would win,

say 120 hands total, here is what happens on PARP;







20 Example winning starting hands:





AA JJ AK TT A,Js J,Ts 7,7 J,T 5,5 J,8s



5,4s 2,2 Q,8s J,7S 8,5s 3,2s A,9 Q,9 8,7 3,4



You will find that although seemingly random, the starting

hands you would win on will get predominately worse as you

win more. It's not this cut and dry but a definite pattern

exists.



The solution is to play more "CRAPPY" hands and less

"GREAT" hands as you win more, You want to get involved

with these less than desirable hands for as inexpensively as

possible, but you DEFINITELY WANT TO GET INVOLVED

WITH THEM. The reason is simple.



Example, Someone is going to have A,K to your 5,4S.



If he's smart, he's going to bet that hand to try and get

drawing hands out. Your job is to make it to the flop as

inexpensively as possible to see if you hit.



Most people have this attitude in poker, but I assure you it's

the wrong one.

In PARP however, it is the right one, BUT only after you have

played tight and won a good amount of money. Is this

confusing?



In a nutshell:

As you win big in PARP be more inclined to stay in until the

flop with rags (not so desirable hands) than with AA KK JTs

etc.



PARP banks on the fact that you will bet big with great

starting hands. It's one of PARP's solutions to redistributing

your funds evenly back to the players. Remember, PARP takes

over 5% of every pot until you go to higher limit tables. It's in

PARPS best interest to keep as many players alive with money.

That's the bottom line of PARPS existence!



To succeed in PARP consistently, you have to drastically be able to

adjust your playing style. It's simple to practice this in real money.

Get up to $150 in real money starting with $25 buy in. Once that

happens force yourself to fold every hand for 2 hours straight. Every

Hand your simply in a learning process. Watch what would have

happened to you. You will see that your AA KK TT would have lost

miserably (your folding EVERY hand right). Then you will see that

your 5,7s which you probably would've folded to a $6 bet would have

hit a straight flush. It is sickening. Now that you have this knowledge

however, it is fulfilling to finally be able to understand what is going on!



Patience and Discipline:



These are two things I didn't have when I started playing poker, and

they must have cost me a small fortune. After you get tired of losing,

These "unnatural" traits will start to develop. In a nutshell, keep in

mind that you may only want to play, actually call a hand 1 out of 20

times on some nights. Naturally you would force yourself to play at

least a few "crap" hands like (k,2 or q,5) just to keep your opponents

from thinking you play super tight.

Getting Paid Off:



To get paid off well in no limit hold'em, you have to build enough of a

pot before the flop to make it worthwhile to the other players to stay in.

If you have pocket kings you check them and the whole table checks,

you're probably not going to get paid off if they hit. As soon as you bet

after the flop everyone is going to get out. However if you placed a $2-

$3 bet you are going to continue to get some action after the flop most of

the time. (Even though high pocket pairs lose most of the time on PARP

((when you're up several hundred dollars)) they still need to be played

as inexpensively before the flop in case you do flop a set.



Remember, this is not a tournament, so there is no reason to go all in

before the flop. Why have a craps shoot which is luck when you can

capitalize on your skill of poker and your know how of PARP's tricks?





PATTERNS PATTERNS PATTERNS



It gets better. By now you should be familiar with the mathematically

correct BEST starting hands in Texas hold'em. You should be familiar

with the correct betting amounts that yield the largest winnings in $25

no limit hold'em in PARP. You should be familiar with adjusting those

starting hands due to PARP's "fairness (bullshit) policy." You should be

familiar with what to watch out for even when it seems you have the

most incredible hand.



Now let's talk about PARP's patterns.



Again, these patterns only seem to work in a Table with 8-10 players.

This book is not about heads up or playing with just 3 or 4 players.

This book is not about other forms of poker on PARP as I have

not "tested" those other games out either. Keep that in mind. I am sure

you can win in those situations, but I strictly recommend playing in a

full No Limit Hold'em table with 8-10 players.

PARP works in patterns of 10. That's why you want as full of a table as

possible because there are 10 players. Below I am going to show you a

sequence of wins and losses. This has taken hours and I encourage you

to test this out yourself with play money first. Then test it out again with

real money. Then go to town. I am sure there are many other patterns

that I haven't even recognized yet. However, these patterns are so

predominant that they are very easy to recognize.



There are many variables and I need you to pay close attention.



Variable 1:



Is it possible for you to win every hand all the time in PARP? Well, if

everyone folds every time except you then the answer is YES.



Variable 2:



Is it possible to lose every hand in PARP? YES, just fold every time.







Variable 3



Second or third best hands can and do win in poker. It happens all the

time when someone bets enough money to get the other player out.



Wouldn't it be nice to know that you have the best hand most of the

time?



Let's start with a brief win loss chart:



W = Win L   Loss



For illustration purposes we are going to call ties Wins.







Remember PARP works in near rounds of 10 on a near full or full table.

Here's an example of real play:

Hand 1   9d 9c Loss

2   3d 6c L

3   3h 9c L

4   8s 3c L

5   7s Jh L Big Blind

6   4c Kc L Small Blind

7   Kh 7d L Dealer

8   3d js Win with a pair of 3's

9   9s Qs L

10   2h Kc W straight (possible win see below for explanation)

11   Ah 8c L

12   Ad Jc L

13   Kc 6s L BB

14   3h 10c L SB

15   7c Jh L Dlr

16   Qh 5d L

17   QD 4h ??? NO FLOP I FOLDED

18   8d 4d L

19   3h 2h L

20   8d Ad ? folded to an all in PROBABLE WIN no flop

21   Kd Jh (these hands lose 90% of the time unless on cycle)

22   9d Jh L

23   8d Kd WIN tied with a straight

24   10h 8s L BB

25   9h 2d L SB

26   Ah 3s L Dlr

27   Kh 2d L

28   5c 9c L

29   5s Qc L

30   2h 8d L

     Qh As Loss played to flop (I would've played out if 10th

31

     hand, I had a straight draw that DIDN'T hit by the way.)

     It was the 8th hand from the last win. Will be explained

     later

32   10c 4s L

33   10s 8c WINNER with a pair of 8's (it's clock work)

34   Js 3d L

35   Jd 2c L

36   Qd 7h W 2 pair $52 pot

37   Qs 10h L

38   Ah 8h W A's

39   2h 10c L

40   3d 8d L

41   7s 4c Win Straight $47 pot Explanation below follow this chart

       carefully

42   AA Loss Didn't even call a $6 bet

43   3c 4s L

44   Js 10s L

45   7h 10h L

46   8s 6s L

47   8s 2s L

48   As 4c L

49   9d 10h L

50   8h 4h L

51   10d 10h L No set flopped, I folded would've lost anyways

52   9h 6s Winner Large preflop bet I folded Would've had straight

53   8s Jc L

54   Ah Jh Winner but I folded a $40 preflop bet (stay sane)

55   7h kc L

Explanation:



Party Poker pays off in cycles of 10. Precisely? NO!



Here are the patterns (the main cycle is 9-12 hands)



WLLLLLLLLLLL W

WLLLLLLLLLL W                 or

WLLLLLLLLL W                 or

WLLLLLLLL W



Those are the main cycles of hands each player will win regardless if

anyone folds.



Here is the GRAVY winning sub cycles.



WW   (10% or less OF THE TIME AFTER A WIN)

W W W (EXTREMELY RARE)

WLW

WLLW

WLLLW



These subcycles come together most of the time. Something like this:





W L W L L W L L W or

W L L L W L L W LL W

Then after 5 consecutive losing hands the cycle of roughly 10 starts over

so it's like this:



W L L L L L L L L L L W or any of the other 10 cycle possibilities.



Here is a string example: W L L L L L L L L W L W L L W L L L W

LLLLLLLLLLWWLLWLLWLLLLLLLLLWLLW

L W L W L L L L L L L L L L W ETC. ETC.



It is also possible to see a losing streak of 20 or so losses, especially when

you are really up a lot of winnings. So watch out.

Some of you might be screaming bloody murder and saying but I have

seen someone win 5 hands in a row, or I have seen some sucker lose 20

hands in a row. This could happen, BUT HOW OFTEN?



Remember, it's possible to win every hand or lose every hand depending

on who folds and who stays in. That's called LUCK.



But for YOU and I, let's rely on skill and patterns that repeat OVER

and OVER and OVER again!



It's imperative that you practice this for hours. You will begin to get a

feel for these patterns like second nature. I started writing them down

for a long time to force myself to pay attention. I strongly recommend

you do the same thing.



Even when I am in a 9-12 main cycle (meaning I haven't won a hand in

9-12 times I will not always call an all in. It's not worth it to call an all in

before the flop unless you only have a few dollars of table money left.



VERY IMPORTANT:



Don't screw yourself by going all in and losing and then having to wait a

hand before you can buy in again. I don't know if that's a flaw in

PARP, but you need to see every starting hand you have to track your

cycles.



If you haven't won and it's the 12th hand, then you are going to win it a

very large percentage of the time. It's not guaranteed though so use

discretion. These cycles hold true 75% of the time when I play in a full

or near full table, so do yourself a favor and perfect being able to spot

them.

I still play some hands when they are out of cycle, because someone who

may have had the best hand quite possibly folded it before the flop. But

now, when you get a pocket pair like K's and you are on the 7th hand of

the main cycle, I bet you will think twice about betting it large!

I am new to EBAY and I would appreciate a positive feedback from you

as soon as possible.





I hope you find exceptional value from this book, as it could pay for

itself many times over. For anyone who gives me a positive feedback the

same day this book is delivered (EBOOK or Snail Mail), I will put you

on my revision list so that you can learn the newest tactics I discover at

NO CHARGE for 6 MONTHS FREE.



This BOOK is copy written. I am selling a limited number of copies and

I ask that you don't share this information with anyone.









This is not a very large book because it is simply the guts. Absorb this and

you could crack Party Poker TOO. Remember Party poker is interested in

one thing. That is your money. Their algorithm produces the most money

possible. You'll be able to witness some extraordinary things on PARP. Like

when a player who has $10 goes all in with 7,8 off suit and 2 people call

with AA and KK only to watch the all in player get 4 8's. Happens all the

time.



I can't tell you what a good feeling it is to get positive feedback from

someone like yourself who applies the knowledge of this book and makes it

Happen for themselves. I love success stories, so please share them with me.



I hope to see you on the tables soon with the new strategies provided in this

book.



Best of knowledge         Robert Eagle

返回列表